Retinoids (compounds related to vitamin A) are a rare thing in beauty – anti-ageing ingredients that we know help reduce wrinkles and other visible signs of ageing. Historically, it’s been argued that only prescription-strength retinol products are concentrated enough to cause change, but the clinical evidence no longer concurs.
Milder concentrates of retinol in over-the-counter products can also do the job (though it may be that, after a year or so, our skin needs something stronger to continue to see the same level of improvement). This is reassuring, because few people can afford to fork out for dermatologists’ prescriptions, but many would like the benefits.
A smart entry is via French pharmacy brands – hardly cheap (retinols never are), but way below luxury brand prices and, to my mind, often just as effective (results in about 12 weeks). I most often recommend La Roche-Posay’s Redermic R anti-wrinkle treatment (£28), a serum best suited to sturdier skin types, and Eau Thermale Avène Ysthéal emulsion (£22), which is fine on most, including sensitive. Not French, but extremely good and more affordable, is Retinol Reface (£19.99): for me, it’s easily the best product from Indeed Labs.
I use a retinoid serum at night, because while many experts have now changed their minds about skin becoming sensitive to sun damage after use, I’m choosing not to take any chances. In any case, if you plan to try retinoids, do brace yourself: some initial irritation, mild flakiness and dryness is entirely to be expected but usually short-lived, so it’s worth starting at a time when your diary is devoid of special engagements and then pushing through.
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